Here is a set of detailed instructions on changinge your own clutch. I did not write this, wytchdctr did. I am not taking credit for it although I did most of the work ;) hehe. I am just hosting it. He actually wrote this for his Elantra but it is the exact same for a beta Accent with beta transmission. These picture were taken at my house so I think that makes them fair game right?

Tools needed:

10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 24mm and 32mm sockets
17mm 12 point (if you are going to take off the flywheel)
Ratchets to match
Breaker Bar
Pry Bar
Flat head screw driver (semi large)
Pliers
Clutch Alignment tool (ask for a 94 Eclipse 1.8ltre.. they will have it 7/8" 20 spline)
Impact wrench
Impact ratchet
Two jacks
Two jack stands
Two caulk blocks
Torque wrench. (Adjustable from 14lbs to 160lbs I had two)
Service Manual (for torque specs)
Something to organize stuff with. Boxes or baggies something.

Materials needed:

Brake Fluid
High Temp Grease
Trans Fluid 75w90 GL4 3 quarts
Clutch Disk
Pressure Plate
Throw Out Bearing (DO NOT ATTACH IT TO THE PP)
At least one friend dumb enough to help with this

Recommended:

Axle Seals (2)
New or machined flywheel or have it machined
(buy from here 2.0L Beta Flywheel - Used or 2.0L Beta Flywheel - Resurfaced)

1. Remove the intake and battery (along with the tray) if you cant do
this stop here. Once those two are cleared out removed the slave
cylinder. This is pretty easy, three bolts hold it with one clip/pin
thing attached to the arm. Just push the line back onto the fender. If
you donÕt want to make a mess find a rubber/plastic hose and bleed all
the fluid out. I just put a rag under the banjo fitting and unbolted
it. Once that is cleared out unbolt the arm that attaches to the clutch
fork (the thing attacked to the slave cyl. That has one bolt holding it
down). Its keyed so donÕt worry about its orientation. IF YOU DONÕT DO
THIS YOU WILL NOT GET THE TRANS TO SEPARATE FROM THE ENGINE!!!.. Next
take the shift cables off. Both of them are held on by small clips.
Careful there are a lot of bushings that come off once you release
them. I think the bracket is held on with two bolts. Remove those and
push all of it to the backside of the engine. Since your there locate
the two bolts holding the starter on and remove them. They both go thru
the trans side of the bell housing and into the starter. Once its free
push it back as well. There are two plugs going into the trans, remove
them.

Picture 1: Shows basic stuff to remove. Remove the stuff with red arrows. The green box shows the area of picture 2.

Picture 2: Shows the part that keeps the trans from seperating from
the motor once all the bolts are removed. Removed the bolt/arm with the
red arrow. The blue arrow shows the slave cyl itself. The Green arrow
shows the shift linkage.

2. Getting the Axles Out

Now that all the small stuff is cleared out its time to get the car
in the air. Jack up the car and install jack stands in the proper
location just under the door on that lip. Put the blocks behind the
rear tires and remove both front tires. This is a good time to drain
the trans fluid. ItÕs a large gold colored bolt on the very bottom of
the trans. MAKE SURE TO CHECK TORQUE SPECS WHEN REINSTALLING. You donÕt
want to over torque and damage that thing. Now that its got no fluid
and the drain bolt is back in remove the two large castle nuts on each
side. They are freaking huge, 32mm, and are on tight. First remove the
cotter pin. One of mine was a pain and the other slide right out. Your
going to need someone to stand on the brakes and have a large breaker
bar/large 32mm wrench being beaten on with a hammer or impact to get it
to come off. I recommend doing both sides before disassembling any
further because the brakes help with this. Now that they are both off
start with one side or the other. Take off the brake caliper (just the
upper portion the bracket can stay) hang the caliper using a bungie
cord or something on the coil. Now remove the two large bolts mounting
the knuckle to the coil. I recommend using the impact to help you out
here. Now have that friend who was holding the brakes help you pull the
axle out of the knuckle as you lay the rotor over. The book says to
release the tie rod during this step I did not. Now one of you go under
the car with that flat head. Some say to yank on the axle but my book
says donÕt because it can damage the cv joint. I had my friend put a
small amount of pulling pressure as I worked the other side of the axle
(on the diff) with the screw driver. One side was a pain and the other
slide right off. If you do not have axle seals ONLY PUSH THE SCREW
DRIVER IN 7mm MAX. If not you will damage the seals. I damaged the one
that was giving me problems coming out but I had the seals handy. You
want to put that screw driver in between the large (3-4inchs wide)
metal cylinder on the axle and the diff. LEAVE THE BOOTS ALONE and take
care to not damage them as they come out. Now go to the other side and
do the same thing. The passenger side is harder to separate the axle
from the knuckle. I assume its because of the toothed ring for the
speedo. By the way, I took the two guides for that line off to give it
more room to play. Now put those expensive basturds in a safe place.

Picture 3: Red arrow is the castle nut, 32mm. Use the brakes, green
arrow, to hold the rotor when you try to break the castle nut loose.
Blue arrows are pointing at the two bolts that hold the knuckle to the
strut.

Picture 4: What it will look like after the axle is out. Green
arrows showing jackpoint and the added safty of keeping a tire under
the car behind the jackstand. Blue arrow shows how I secured the brake
cailper to the spring.
If you do not like any loose wires, you can tuck the connector up out
of the way (make sure it's not against the moving portion of the
steering column).

Picture 5: Shows where to pry at the axle (more than likely from
under the car but you get the idea) LEAVE THE BOOT POINTED AT IN RED
ALONE.

3. Unmounting

Again go under the car but this time you gonna need a lot of tools.
Here is how I started the removal of the trans. I removed all the lower
bell housing bolts first 4 (? Or 3?) are obvious. There are two 10mm
that go straight up. I then removed the rear roll stop. Remove the
mount AND the bracket on the trans.. I didnÕt do this at first and had
to later for room to move it around. Nothing special here but some of
the bolts may need the impacts help to get them to come off. Then get
the front roll stop. Two bolts are easier to get from the top (near the
radiator). The engine will stay up with the roll stops off!!. Now that
everything below is free push the jacks (I put the larger of the two
under the engine with a block of wood) under the car. I had one to help
support the trans and I donÕt know if it needed it. It seemed to help
control the trans as we slide it, again with the block of wood. Now
that the engine is supported move under the hood again. (During the
time I was under the car I had someone take the splash guard off of the
drivers side, two bolts going up vertical hold it on, 10mm) I removed
the drive side engine mount next. The bolts holding the mount are
hidden behind two plugs in the wheel well. Put a rag or something in
the socket when you take them out. I lost one in the fender, upps, but
had another bolt handy so it wasnÕt that big of a deal. Now that the
mount is free take the bracket off of the trans here as well. 3 bolts,
one is hidden under the rubber portion of the mount. At this point I
unscrewed (using the impact) the drivers side subframe a few turns.
This gave me about an inch more room.

Picture 6: Red arrows show general location of 4 bolts holding
upper portion of the bell housing on. The yellow arrow is the drivers
side mount, Blue general area of rear rollstop (you can see it from the
bottom... very easy to find), and the green shows the front roll stop.

Picture 7: Green arrow shows what the bolts on the drivers side
look like that need to be loosened some to make room. The yellow shows
what happens when you think you can make it out of a steep parking lot
and you are lowered.

4. Separation

The trans is almost free. At this point be careful because the
engine/trans can move back and forth easy. You have three bell housing
bolts going from trans to engine to remove and two (one near the
radiator and one near the firewall) going from engine to trans. The one
near the firewall is a pain. I broke it loose after getting really
pissed off. Now the trans is loose. There may be one or two bolts I am
not remembering just look around, thatÕs what I had to do. Now get the
larger of you and your buddy to lean down and pull back on the trans.
After a few light shakes my slide right off. With a little help from
the jack we slide it back into the fender. Once more of it was on the
fender we moved the jack. Too really get some room rotate the trans
(counter clockwise from the drivers fender) and get the diff up on the
frame. This rotation will also allow for that black plug to slide under
the fender. No need for the jack it sits there just fine, I had one
under it because IÕm paranoid. Now you can see youÕre burnt up stock
clutch. I took this time to clean out the bell housing area with a rag
and mild degreaser. Also I greased the crap out of the clutch fork
because I hated that squeaking noise it was making.

Picture 8: Blue Arrow shows how you need to rotate the trans far
enough to slide that black plug under. Yellow arrow is showing what
would normally be level for the trans.

Step 5: Clutch Removal/Install

Now its time to get that crap pressure plate out. Take your clutch
alignment tool and put it in there unless you want to just drop the
clutch on the ground. Remove the bolts that ring the pressure plate in
a star pattern if possible to make it easier to take off. I did this
with the help of someone under the car. You will need a pry bar against
the ring gear to stop it from turning. After all the bolts are removed
its still hard to get the pressure plate off thanks to the dowel pins
on the flywheel. A flat head screw driver may help you out here. The
clutch will come with it if you have the alignment tool in it. Now
finagle that thing out. Now you can see your hot spot marked up
flywheel. Those 17mm 12 point bolts are installed. If you can get your
impact in there DO IT. Those things are in there good. It took many
many hits with the impact to get them to start turning. The flywheel
didnÕt try to turn on me when I used the impact. No impact good luck
getting them off. Remove that and when the last bolt comes free have a
hand on it. DonÕt drop the flywheel. Now either take it in for
machining or open your new flywheel. DonÕt care to do crap with the
flywheel then skip the last few steps. It might be a good idea to use
new flywheel bolts. I didnÕt and the book doesnÕt say to but they are
under a lot of stress. Now get that torque wrench ready it takes a lot
for those bolts. Have someone hold the flywheel from under the car and
start a few of the bolts. Have that same person or whoever get a socket
and hold the crank pulley bolt. Now get that 17mm and an extension on
your torque wrench and start pattern them on (ref. Manual for specs).
Now the fun part. Getting the clutch and pressure plate back on the
flywheel. I did it this way, first I took the disc and used a paint
brush to cover all the splines of the clutch in high temp grease. You
donÕt want to overdo it and have grease get on the friction surface,
that would suck. Also clean the input shaft and if any grubby hands
have touched the flywheel hit it with some brake cleaner. Now take the
clutch and have someone hold it from under the car. Now install the
alignment tool. Then put the pressure plate over the tool. I had a hell
of a time with my ACT getting it on the damn dowel pins. Infact I had
to take a file to the holes to remove that yellow paint. Make sure you
put the dowels in the right holes. Easy way to check is see if all the
bolt holes have threads under them and not solid metal and if it was
really easy to slide on, wrong hole. Now install a few bolts after
confirming the clutch is aligned right. Again with the torque wrench
and the start pattern. Now the clutch and pressure plate are in its
time to start putting it back together. DO NOT INSTALL THE TOB ON THE
PRESSURE PLATE!!!. Take and grease the TOBs contact points and a light
coat in the plastic sleeve. INSTALL THE TOB IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION
(sleeve pointing towards the PP and not the trans) ON THE CLUTCH FORK.

Picture 9: Red arrows showing general location of the bolts that
hold the flywheel, the other things are balancing weights. Leave them
alone.

Picture 10: Yellow arrow shows hot to install the clutch alignment
tool. This can be had an local parts store, dont ask for a Hyundai
alignment tool. Ask for an alignment tool for a mitz or 7/8 20 spline.
About $1 if your kit didn't come with one.

Picture 11: Red arrow showing the bolts that are a pain. My impact
took about 3 min to break these bad boys. Watch them and you will see
them turn very very slow for one full turn. THEN they come right off.

Picture 12: Red arrow shows the clutch fork you want to install the
TOB on. The yellow arrow shots the input shaft the TOB should be slide
over.

6. The stab

We got this on the second try and this is how I did it. Enlist your
biggest buddy. Have him get the trans off the frame and rotated
correctly. Ref. Two pin things on either side of the trans. They will
show you its going in correctly. Slide the trans back towards the
engine. I had some cables in the way and just used zip ties to hold
them out of the way. We used the jack to help a little with supporting
it. If you get the trans over the PP but it wont move any further back
it up enough to get someoneÕs hand in it and turn the input shaft just
a little... very little (Reference above picture. Turn that shaft with
the yellow arrow pointing at it). Push again. Once its lined up itÕll
slide right up to the motor. Now get one of the bolts in the top of the
bell housing and correct the jacks position to make sure it stays. Now
you can get all the upper bolts back in and tighten to proper torque.
Reinstall the slave cylinder arm to the clutch fork and push it towards
the firewall. If you donÕt hear a click something isnÕt right. I had to
push a few times to get it. This is the TOB snapping into the PP.
Reinstall the drivers side mount. Then reverse the order of
dismounting. The only things to note are the following when its going
back together.

7. Reinstallation

Make sure to use proper torque and the right bolts. Make sure when
you slide the axles back in to have the C clips opening facing DOWN.
When reinstalling the brakes use the pads on the side they came off of
and clean them with some cleaner because they will be nasty. TORQUE
EVERYTHING DOWN CORRECTLY. Make sure to bleed the clutch hydro system.
And donÕt forget to put oil in the transmission.

Start it up in neutral and let it warm up. Be gentle for the first 500 miles.